If you ever find yourself in the Kingdom of Fife on the Scottish east coast, visit the historic and picturesque village of Crail, tucked away in the easternmost corner of the East Neuk – one of the most picturesque parts of the renowned Fife Coastal Path that stretches from Kincardine to Newburgh. With its pantile-clad roofs and pastel-coloured window frames, the village is an ideal place for a weekend or a one-day getaway trip.
In the summer it’s time to embrace a relaxed atmosphere of holiday-making, and retreat to the seaside in search of art fixes. Such getaways are living proof that one does not need to jet off to the southern Mediterranean to enjoy the summer: the East Neuk proves that summer can be very much enjoyed (with hiking, swimming and golfing), without the obligatory sunburn or mosquitoes. If one is willing to endure a bit of wind, and carrying a jumper for cooler evenings, summer in Scotland is a breath of fresh air, and can prove to be an unexpected delight.
However, it is true that sunshine is a rare commodity in this neck of the woods and must be cherished. Thus, whenever the forecast points to ‘overcast with sunshine’, it’s time to hit the great outdoors, with Crail being an ideal location for a day trip.
I have to be honest – I originally visited a show that was in its closing days, thus I decided to explore Crail Pottery – a permanent (let’s hope so!) fixture that features a third-generation craft-making enterprise (William Morris would be seriously proud!), with an in-house kiln, a workshop for throwing, glazing and decorating, as well as a charming shop on the second floor.
As I strolled past the town hall in the Dutch Tower on the Tolbooth in Marketgate and a public library, known as the British Legion Hall (a former school), I came across the courtyard of the renowned Pottery. Incidentally, the cottage adjacent to the Pottery courtyard is called ‘The Kiln Cottage’ — one rejoices at the consistency of village planning.
One hears of Crail Pottery almost in lore-like terms and finds examples of their craftsmanship all over the surrounding area of Fife, as one of the cafes, Five Acres in St Andrews, features mugs and plates from their stoneware collection. On a street near the renowned harbour, between rows of sleepy seaside cottages with pastel-coloured window casings, the Pottery is a haven for the craft aficionados out there.
As one enters through the wooden door frame, the air is redolent with fresh notes of geranium, as the score by Howard Shore from The Lord of the Rings fills the air, intermingling with water trickling from the lion-shaped wall-mounted spouts. Grapevines unfurl lavishly on the roof, and one partially expects fairies and other magical creatures to emerge from the large Roman terracotta planters that are strewn across the courtyard. The gentle light of the overcast sky glistens on the glazed surfaces of multi-coloured ceramic vessels of various colours, shapes and sizes: amphoras, vases, jugs, and even lamp bases, from turquoise and lapis blue to tourmaline red and dune yellow. In the shop upstairs is where one locates the rich variety of the collections: ceramic-, stone- and earthenware, featuring a thistle, tartan and polka-dot collections.
What sets them apart is the intimacy of the enterprise: founded in 1965 by Carol and Stephen Grieve, today the Pottery is run by their daughter and sons, Sarah and Ben and Timothy. Stephen experiments with various firing techniques, such as raku, earthenware and stoneware, mixing found materials such as feathers that are applied during the firing process. The hues vary greatly in ceramic pigments from the ones used in oil paints, such as sang de boeuf, zinc and ash.
Sarah creates the ceramic ware collection (glazed items) with her ‘potter’s mate’, Jude. Cobalt, cerulean, celadon and turquoise are frequently-featured hues; the typology of tableware includes cups, mugs, plates, platters, bowls and honey pots (with wooden spoons), and the utilitarian collection is complemented by whimsical sculptures of fauna found in East Neuk – puffins and seagulls.
A co-operative, continuing the craft tradition that is so intrinsic to this part of the world, Crail Pottery is a sanctuary for anyone interested in craft, as the kilns and workshop are located right on the property, with the shop on the second floor. Coming from a ceramic background, I am fond and reverent of the practice and its materials — clay is associated with purity, and used in certain beauty products. Its cooling properties, storing fish and meats in salt in amphoras, date back thousands of years; thus, one cannot help but be in awe when finding oneself in proximity to such ancient tradition.
With thanks to Anna Shevetovska for this feature.
Opening times Mon – Fri 9:00 – 17:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 17:00 (varies in summertime)
Crail Pottery, 75 Nethergate, Crail, Fife KY10 3TX
